Macy's Celebrates Ebony Fashion Fair Founder Eunice Johnson

In my haste to escape the snow and slush, I almost missed a brush with glamour greatness. But thanks to a tourist snapping photos of a Macy's Herald Square window display, I slowed my rush hour roll down 34th Street long enough for a fashion history lesson.

In honor of Black History Month, Macy's and Ebony Magazine have created a fabulous display celebrating the signature style of Ebony Fashion Fair founder Eunice W. Johnson.  During the '80s, I attended an Ebony Fashion Fair show with my mother.  The elaborate gowns and suits with architecturally stacked shoulder pads.  The dramatic hair and makeup.  The model sashays and twirls. For a young African-American woman, this traveling fashion show was better than Fashion week.

Macy's tribute prompted me to learn more about Mrs. Johnson.  The store's website describes her as "a great couture client, friend of designers and voracious advocate for black women."  Not only did the Selma, Alabama native start Ebony Fashion Fair in 1956 as a fundraiser for a New Orleans hospital. The former social worker also gave Ebony magazine its name, and worked tirelessly with her husband John to build the Johnson Publishing empire.

After she noticed that many of her models (Iman began her career with Ebony Fashion Fair) had to mix their own makeup in order to match their skin tones, in 1973 Johnson launched Fashion Fair Cosmetics -- a staple in my household.  She died on Jan. 3, 2010 at age 93.

The Macy's Herald Square window display on 34th and Broadway will be up through Feb. 1.  Find a Macy's near you showcasing the display and hosting a meet-and-greet with Johnson Publishing chairman, Linda Johnson Rice (John and Eunice Johnson's daughter).

Photos by Tracy E. Hopkins

Oprah and Young Designers Put Australia Back on America's Radar

Australia has never been on my top ten list of places to visit. The trek just seemed too far.  Watching Oprah and her choice viewers explore the alternately beach-and-desert-riddled terrain, however, has made me rethink an excursion to the land down under.

Lola & Bailey designers, Cheri and Theresa.

Recently, I found even more reason to take a trip to the Outback.  Australia is home to a talented pool of young jewelry and fashion designers.  I had the privilege to meet many of these designers at the "G'Day USA Designer Preview" sponsored by Woolmark, the world's most recognized textile symbol.  Most of the designers showcased don't have a retail presence in the America...yet. But they will.

Here are a few of my favorites:

Lola & Bailey "Sun Dial" necklaces.

Lola & Bailey: This quirky brand is the brainchild of BFFs Theresa Nguyen and Cheri Flewell-Smith, who used their background as graphic designers to make a bold line of costume jewelry (some of the necklaces were inspired by the sun dial) and trendy message totes that sell for under $100.

Totomoto-Australia designer Cynthia Ellis.

Totomoto-Australia: Every piece of Totomoto-Australia jewelry is handcrafted and inspired mostly by the country's beautiful flora and fauna.  Any fashion-forward vixen would love to own one of designer Cynthia Ellis's brass statement pieces dripping with replicas of sea horses and butterflies.

Designer Paula Kyle Walden.

Paula Walden: Lady Gaga would go ga-ga for a piece of Paula Kyle Walden's jewelry (cheeky toy soldier-adorned bracelets) or for one of her eye-catching "Bow to Me" head pieces.  The crafty 27-year-old designer is a former model with a killer sense of style and sense of humor to match.

Ghost & Lola: It's easy to see why pieces from Kim McClintock's ethereal jewelry line were featured on "True Blood." The fantastical collection is inspired by the designer's background as a visual artist and combines vintage and contemporary objects.

Serpent and the Swan: The brainchild of twisted sisters Hayley and Lauri Smith, the Serpent and the Swan will surely find a following amongst morose New Yorkers with a fascination for well-crafted, basic black separates.  Each piece is uniquely adorned with an animal motif -- be it a row of hand carved hummingbird buttons, a horse-head zipper tab, or a double-headed wolf brooch.

Photos by Tracy E. Hopkins

Spring Fashion Trend: House Rossil African-Inspired Fashion

One of the hottest trends for spring 2011 is clothing accented with African fabrics, patterns, and textiles.  I'm a big fan of the look, which was exhibited on the runway by Gwen Stefani's L.A.M.B. spring line at New York Fashion Week.  It's always a pleasure, however, to give shine to an authentic African designer like Wayne Illuyomade (pronounced ill lu yo mod day).  

I had an email chat with Wayne, whose contemporary dress line, House Rossil, will be introduced to the fashionista-buying public via a series of trunk shows.  The first scheduled trunk show will be in Washington, D.C. this weekend, Jan. 28-30 at Maris Elaine Gallery at the National Harbor.

ESW: What is the significance of the name House Rossil? 

I decided to name the company after my parents who were my first fashion inspiration as a child and also because of the non-stop support they have always and continue to provide to my siblings and myself. "Rossil" is a combination of my father's initials, my mother's initials, and the first two letters of our family name.

ESW: How long have you been a designer and what inspires your designs?

This is a tough one. I have always been interested in the aesthetics of all things I interact with. I was first enamored with residential architecture, then later turned my attention to re-designing common automobiles in the way I would like to see them.  In college, I began to focus on clothing and women's wear in particular. I wasn't happy with the general perception of African-inspired fashion and particularly disliked the overly jungle or safari-inspired themes that were predominant whenever African fashion was the topic  the in the 80's, 90's, and even more recently. Luckily, the perception is changing slowly as many designers are beginning to see the beauty of many of these textiles and colors.

ESW: What can buyers expect to find at your first trunk show?

As a small designer with a new and unique product, we have chosen direct customer interaction via our trunk shows as a way of getting to know our customers and vice-versa. However, our small size also mandates that we are unable to carry large inventories and as such, our trunk shows are mainly an opportunity for our potential customers to see our line and pre-order items directly from us. Many of the textiles used for our dresses are available in limited quantities, so our customers get truly unique items at discounted prices when pre-ordering. We will also have some limited inventory at some of the shows.

ESW: You design for women with curves.  What is the size range?  

One of the issues that was brought to my attention by many women, including my wife and muse, was the difficulty in finding cuts that accommodate the curves of real women, generally and particularly finding such dresses that utilize African-inspired prints. This inspired our choice of fit models for the UtBT House Rossil line in particular. Further research also indicated that this issue was applicable across the size range of women's clothing. Curvy women come in all sizes and proportions. So our approach was to focus on the fit and take-on a segment at a time. Our initial sizes will range from 2 to 14. We will expand our size range later this year as we ramp up our pattern-making and production capabilities. Our intention is to provide a great fit at size 4 and size 16. 

ESW: How do you feel about African textiles and fabrics being incorporated into mainstream fashion?  For instance, Gwen Stefani used a lot of African prints in her spring 2011 collection for L.A.M.B.

I have noticed the increasing use of these textiles and I welcome it. Part of my inspiration is a desire to expand the acceptance of these textiles and styles into the fashion mainstream. Fashion is indeed psychological and a communication of one's values and self-worth.  And for better or worse, mainstream fashion houses are indeed aspirational for many  -- especially on the African continent. In my opinion, it must do something positive for those young girls in Africa to see a little of themselves in the fashion and music idols they love from so far away. 

Seeing Beyonce or Gwen Stefani in the textiles they are familiar with might make them realize simple fact: that that can grow up to be just as big as their idols. This can only be a positive thing. In an age when we have a first lady and fashion icon in the White House whose name is Obama, these textiles coming into the mainstream is an idea whose time has come.

Reviva's Natural Beauty Products with Spa Quality

As I mature, blemishes and fine lines are my skin's biggest enemies.  So I'm thankful whenever I discover natural products that effectively help me keep a youthful glow.

Reviva Labs is an affordable health food store brand that's been around for 37 years and is used in over 1200 professional skin-care salons.  I received a few samples and I've been using Reviva's gentle Glycolic Acid Cleanser ($12) and Glycolic Acid Toner ($12) to help unclog pores and control pesky blackheads and blemishes.  Reviva's glycolic formulation is made with non-toxic, fruit-based Alpha Hydroxy derivatives without mineral oil or any other pertrolatum derivatives.

Each night, I also apply Reviva's Hyaluronic Acid Serum ($22), a high-potency daily moisture booster. The professional strength serum helps keep your skin hydrated in dry climates and heated rooms that rob skin of moisture (New York City apartments are notorious for this).

Reviva has been a part of my daily skin-care regimen for about a month. So far, so good.  The products are gentle and non-irritating.  And compared to other acne and anti-aging products on the market, the price is right.

Brazilian Keratin Treatment Pros and Cons

Earlier this week I posed the question, "Is the Brazilian Keratin treatment safe?" The University of Illinois-Urbana laboratory teaching specialist I interviewed sure doesn't think so.  She asserts that by adding a fixative like formaldehyde to keratin protein, the hair can lose elasticity and flexibility and easily break.  

Dana'a Loft Hair owner Dana Gibbs.

New York hair stylist Dana Gibbs of Dana's Loft Hair, however, thinks the Brazilian Keratin treatment is an excellent option to "straighten" your hair.  Dana especially recommends the treatment for her African-American clients with natural hair to give them less frizz and more manageability. I'm still skeptical but asked the stylist to give Everything She Wants a more in depth look at the treatment process.


Do you still recommend the Brazilian Keratin treatment and use it on clients?  And if so, do you use a formaldehyde-free version? 

Dana: Yes, I do recommend the Brazilian Keratin treatment and I have many clients that get this service.  The treatment that I use is not formaldehyde-free, but it has a very low amount (less than nail polish). 

What are the risks of getting the Brazilian Keratin treatment? With all the controversy, there must be some risk involved in using the treatment, just as there are risks associated with getting a relaxer/perm.

Dana: The controversy is about the formaldehyde omitting harmful gas while being applied, which would harm me most of all and I wouldn't do this if I felt my health was at risk.  The level of formaldehyde has to be very high for this to happen. There is very little smoke [emitted] with the product I use, so I don't wear a mask.  But I do use a small fan to blow the smoke away from my face. 

The one product that created all this talk was the Brazilian Blow Out, which claimed it was formaldehyde-free. Most Brazilian Keratin treatments have very little formaldehyde.

As far as the effects on the hair, the treatment does not chemically alter the hair so it does not have the potential to damage the hair like a relaxer/perm. All it does is add a coating of keratin to the hair, which tames frizz.

Can you give me a step-by-step description of what happens when you get the treatment? 

Dana: Keratin treatments are applied to the hair and then flat ironed in with 450 degrees of heat to seal the product into the hair.  In three days the product has bonded with the hair to seal and coat.  Because the hair is made up of keratin, this product fills in the areas that are lacking keratin due to chemicals and daily wear and tear, which reduces dryness and frizz.

1. Do not wash hair for 3 days.  The reason you wait before shampooing is so the keratin has time to adhere to the hair.
2.  Do not exercise and perspire or get the hair wet in that 3 day period.
3. Do wash and condition your hair once a week as usual, after the 3 day waiting period.

Dana’s tips for caring for your hair after the Brazilian Keratin Treatment.

1. After washing your hair with a sodium lauryl sulfate free and deep conditioning shampoo, apply a leave in conditioner to maintain your frizz free style.  She recommends one from Dana's Loft Hair "Me Collection."
2. Once you have the treatment, you don't have to use as much heat to blow or iron your hair.
3. Always have your hair trimmed at the time of your treatment.
4. You should get the treatment touched up every 3-4 months.

Isn't using a flat iron or blow dryer alone to straighten your hair a better, completely chemical-free alternative to Brazilian keratin treatments? 

Dana: Heat burns if used too much. This treatment allows the client to use less heat on their hair, which means they are not burning the hair. The formaldehyde in this product does not alter the hair, it is used as more as a preservative (like in toothpaste, lipstick and deodorant), so technically it is not chemically altering the hair. Straightening with heat gets hair straight without chemicals, but it can damage and dry out the hair over time, which leads to breakage.

Is the Brazilian Keratin Treatment Safe?

Last I heard, most Brazilian Keratin treatments are made with carcinogenic formaldehyde.  Judge Joe Brown even did an episode about it. So I'm puzzled when I still see salons offering the controversial treatment.


I recently received an email offer from a New York City beauty and spa deal site.  Here's how the site's snappy copy spins the straightening treatment:


"Brazilian Keratin Straightening is a revolutionary process that transforms curly, damaged, or frizzy hair into wash-and-go, silky-supermodel-locks. Unlike other processes, this treatment involves no harsh chemicals; only keratin, a plant-derived protein that actually protects your hair from further damage (while making it Selma-Hayek-perfect). Your friends will be jealous of your soft, shiny, glamorous hair for months and months."

Image credit: Essence.com

Sure, it will de-frizz your hair, but over time will the treatment damage your scalp and cause your hair to break off or fall out?


Yes indeed, according to Joanne Manaster, a laboratory teaching specialist at the University of Illinois-Urbana.


"Keratin in the hair is a protein. If you can add a fixative like formaldehyde, and before it sets, put the protein in the shape you desire through blowing or flat ironing, you can have your hair stay in the desired shape, which I assume is usually flat and smooth," says Manaster.

But Manaster warns: "Formaldehyde is a carcinogen and toxic, so new formulations have removed that. However, they still might add just as toxic glutaraldehyde or thioglycolate (you know these from perms). From many years of lab experience, fixed proteins definitely become more fragile with all the cross linking and they lose their flexibility and elasticity. Most assuredly, hair can easily break once fixed in this way."


Hair stylist Kevin Thurston agrees that "most Keratin treatments still contain formaldehyde or some form of it." So he offers one of the formaldehyde-free (but not chemical-free) options Manaster mentioned, which "no longer needs to be left in for 72 hours." 


"It can be washed after just an hour and is done in the salon," he says.  "It has shine and better damage repair for all sorts of hair [types]."


One formaldehyde-free Keratin treatment used in salons is the Global Keratin Hair Taming System with Juvexin.  It's being touted as "the next generation of traditional keratin treatments."  On Global Keratin's website, Juvexin is defined as "the only keratin compound scientifically proven to protect and restore hair back to its youthful state."  Global Keratin even has a line of at home after-care products (shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner and serum).  


I was sent the products to try out, which can be used with or without the Global Keratin Hair Taming salon treatment to boost hair strength and manageability.  Although the shampoo felt silky going on, my hairdresser  commented that my hair felt dehydrated not long after I'd used the moisturizing shampoo.


While I have more clarity on the keratin treatment options available, I'm still skeptical about any hair straightening product that claims to be chemical free. What's your take on the Brazilian Keratin Treatment?  Would you still try it?

Finding the Right Bra Size at Wacoal

I've been wearing the same bra size since college.  And since I'm on the smaller end of the boobie spectrum I hadn't noticed any problems with fit or comfort.  After I went for my first professional fitting ever, however, I received some shocking news.

Image credit: Wacoal

Not only had I been wearing the wrong bra size for at least 15 years, but I'm a full cup size smaller than I thought.  So instead of a 36B, I'm actually, er, a 34B or get this, a 32D! I'm not alone either.  It's estimated that 8 out of 10 women are wearing the wrong-sized bra.

The best way to determine your accurate bra size is to see a professional. For comfort, I've been wearing wireless bras for years. But with the assistance of my helpful Wacoal fit consultant Gail Oliver, I learned that under-wire bras don't have to be uncomfortable if you wear the right size. As a parting gift, I received the pretty French Garden Seamless Underwire Contour Bra ($62) in black.

To make sure your bra size has you covered, make an appointment with a Wacoal fit consultant.  Or if you want immediate help, grab a tape measure and a bra fitter can help you over the phone.  Call (800) 922-6250 for either option.

Image credit: Wacoal

Here's how to measure yourself:

1. Take a snug measurement around your rib cage directly under the bust.  To get the most accurate reading, make sure the tape measure rests flat on the skin and goes straight across your back.

2. Measure around the fullest part of your bust, making sure the tape measure lies flat against your body.

3. Type each measurement into Wacoal's handy fit calculator to determine your correct bra size!

Ring in the New Year with Fashion for a Cause

Get the new year started on a good note by shopping for a cause.  Here are a few fashionable items that will make you look and feel good:

Glass-Beaded Tear Drop Earrings from Africa by Thanda Zulu ($22): All Thanda Zulu jewelry is handmade using glass beads by women in income generation projects, bringing economic sustainability to communities in need.


In addition, all proceeds from your purchase support Thanda's projects for orphans of AIDS in Africa. These lovely beaded teardrop earrings come in a variety of colors and measure about 2.5 inches long.


FEED 2 Bracelet, Forever 21 ($4.80): The purchase of a FEED 2 Bracelet --sold exclusively at Forever 21 -- will provide 2 school meals for children through the United Nations World Food Program.

FEED 2 Guatemala Bracelets are handcrafted by artisans in Guatemala. These charming glass-beaded, nylon-strung bracelets come in six cool colors: red, yellow, blue, gold, silver, and black.  Mix and match with other bracelets and trade 'em with your friends.

Each color represents the country designated to receive the 2 school meals that are provided with the purchase of every bracelet. Each hand-beaded FEED logo bracelet measures approximately 6“ long, with 3" ties on both ends. 

RED: Provides 2 school meals in Swaziland, a country with the highest HIV prevalence in the world.

YELLOW: Provides 2 school meals in Sri Lanka, aiding millions of citizens still struggling with the effects of 2004's devastating tsunami, coupled with a quarter century of civil war.

BLUE: Provides 2 school meals in Haiti, a country in which approximately 70% of children under 5 years old suffer from malnutrition.

GOLD: Provides 2 school meals in Honduras, which houses the third largest School Feeding Operation in the world.

SILVER: Provides 2 school meals in Pakistan to aid victims of the recent flood and earthquake that devastated millions Pakistani children.

BLACK: Provides 2 school meals in Kenya, benefiting over one million children within the U.N. World Food Program's School Feeding Operations in Kenya. 

Photo credit Tracy E. Hopkins

The Good Shoe Project at Payless ($19.99): For each pair of Airwalk's Hope shoes purchased at Payless ShoeSource® or online, one pair of kids' shoes will be donated to World Vision to help needy children in Central America (El Salvador, Honduras, Guatemala, Nicaragua or Costa Rica). 

Offer ends February 14, 2011 or while supplies last.  Click here for information about World Vision and the donated shoes.